4 Amazing Things to do with Zucchini

You get to a point with zucchinis where you can't even give them away. Here are 4 quick simple recipes that use up excess zucchinis - two disguise the zucchini, two camouflage it, but rest assured your kids will be clueless.

Zucchini Muffins

Brown sugar, nuts and raisins give these muffins a rich, complex flavour, completely disguising the zucchini.

1 1/2 cup flour

1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 tsp cinnamon
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 cup firmly packed grated zucchini
1/4 tsp vanilla
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
1/2 cup golden raisins

Preheat oven to 350F. Generously grease muffin tins or line them with muffin cups. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon; then set aside. Combine brown sugar and egg and beat until light and fluffy. Add vegetable oil and beat mixture for 1-2 minutes. Add zucchini and vanilla and blend well. Stir in nuts and raisins. Quickly fold in dry ingredients until just evenly blended - do not overmix. Spoon batter into prepared muffin tins, filling them to the rim. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned on top. Cool on a wire rack.
Makes 1 Dozen Muffins.

Calabacita (Mexican Zucchini & Corn Sauté)

This dish is really versatile - you can add browned crumbled chorizo sausage or chopped jalapeños if you like things hot. I like to add 1/2 cup of chopped fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice. Calabacita makes a good cold salad and a colourful stuffing for baked peppers, summer squash or tomatoes. Leftover Calabacita is great mixed with guacamole and served in soft flour or corn tortillas for a quick vegetarian lunch.

1 med onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp butter
3 medium zucchini

2 cups corn kernels
2 plum tomatoes, chopped
1/2 tsp crumbled oregano

1/2 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp pepper
1/2 cup Queso Fresco or grated Monterey Jack cheese

Sauté onion and garlic in butter until tender. Add zucchini, corn, oregano, salt and pepper. Cook, covered, for 8 to 10 minutes until vegetables are almost tender. Uncover, increase heat slightly and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Sprinkle with cheese and serve.
Serves 6 as a side dish, 2 to 3 as a main course.

Chocolate Zucchini Cake.

This recipe comes courtesy of Caroline Bowden. It’s "extra delicious - somewhat nutritious!!!"

2 1/2 cup flour

1 tsp cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 cup sugar (or less, depending how sweet you like it)
2 tsp. vanilla

1/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup cocoa
2 1/2 tsp baking powder

3/4 cup softened butter
3 eggs

2 cups shredded zucchini
1 cup chopped walnuts

1/2 cup chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350F. Mix all ingredients together except for nuts and chocolate chips. Beat batter well, and then add nuts and chocolate chips. Pour into greased and floured bundt pan. Bake for 1 hour. Chocolate icing is recommended but optional :)

Zucchini with Lemony Crumbs

What element does Lemony Snicket say is not in the periodic table of elements? ... Bread crumbs!

2 pounds zucchini, coarsely grated

6 tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups coarse bread crumbs (from a day-old baguette)
1 1/2 tsp grated lemon zest
1 tsp crumbled, dried thyme or fresh chopped basil
2 garlic cloves, minced

Toss zucchini with 3/4 teaspoon salt in a colander set over a bowl and let it drain for 20 minutes. Squeeze handfuls of the grated zucchini in a kitchen towel to remove excess moisture. Melt 3 tbsp of the butter in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium heat, then add bread crumbs, lemon zest, thyme, and 1/8 tsp salt. Stir frequently until the crumbs are golden, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and wipe out the skillet, then cook the finely chopped garlic in the remaining 3 tablespoons butter, over medium-high heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds to one minute. Add zucchini and sauté until slightly softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Serve the zucchini topped with bread crumbs.
Makes 4 servings.

If you know any more amazing things to do with zucchini, feel free to post them in the comments section below.

Summer's Bounty

We've had a great summer for growing so far here in Ottawa - lots of hot sunny days and rain always coming just when we need it. The Cherokee Trail of Tears beans have reached beyond the top of the deck posts and are now winding their way across. They have lovely lilac flowers that attract alot of pollinators. The Hidatsa Shield Figure beans are much shorter, only about 4 feet high right now. They have small white flowers with bright yellow interiors. They don't seem as vigorous but they do have to share a pot with a very greedy zucchini.


Speaking of zucchini, my two plants, one black and one green, have been coming on strong since the end of July. I'll be posting some zucchini recipes later this month. You can never have too many zucchini recipes.

The tomatoes have all started to ripen - the first to turn red were the San Marzano plums, followed by the Heirloom Beefsteaks (see below). A tomato plant I purchased as Oliver`s German White has just started to turn red - I`m not sure if it`s supposed to do that before it turns white or if it was just mis-identified as a seedling. My Fantome du Laos tomato is also supposed to be white - its fruits are still green, as are the Brandywine tomato's, another heirloom variety that takes a long time to mature.

My eggplants have also been very productive - I'm averaging at least 6 Japanese eggplants per plant and my Rosa Bianca, a pink and white heirloom from Italy, has several large fruits.

Harvest Recipe: Salade Nicoise


Salade Nicoise is a great option when you're faced with a ton of veggies and just a few cans of tuna in the pantry. The vegetables listed below are traditional but small boiled new potatoes, tender boston or romaine lettuce leaves and sliced red bell peppers can also be added to the mix. This recipe serves four, but can be easily halved for two.

Dressing:
3/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Salad:
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 medium tomatoes, cut into thin wedges
1/2 cup pitted ripe olives
1 can anchovy fillets (entirely optional!)
2 cans albacore tuna, drained and broken into chunks
2 hardboiled eggs, sliced

Make the dressing first: In a jar combine olive oil, vinegar and seasonings and shake well. Set aside.

Cook the green beans whole in a small amount of boiling, salted water until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain them well and turn them into a shallow dish. Add 1/2 cup of the dressing and toss until the beans are well-coated. Refrigerate beans, covered, until well-chilled, at least 2 hours. At this point you can also refrigerate the remaining salad dressing and ingredients.

To serve, turn the marinated beans into a salad bowl. Add all but a few onion slices, tomato wedges, olives and toss gently. Then add the tuna chunks, anchovies, if desired, and egg slices and toss again. Garnish the salad with the reserved onion slices, tomato and olives. Drizzle the remaining dressing over salad and serve immediately.

Deadheaders Unite!

Nah, it's not some hippie thing. "Deadheading" - removing faded flowers - is the best way to keep your plants blooming all summer long. Once seeds begin to form on a flowering plant, the plant stops forming new flower buds. Deadheading prevents seeds from developing and extends the flowering season so you can enjoy your annuals and perennials longer.



As soon as a flower's petals have fallen off, or once it has withered or browned, remove the entire bloom, from the base of the flower stalk. The flower stalk itself will eventually die off so if there are no new flower buds on it, remove it as well. Use scissors or hand pruners to remove tough stalks without damaging your plants. Some flowers are clustered on large scapes or long spikes - remove the entire spike once the uppermost flowers have finished blooming.



Some plants shed off their old flowers every day while other flowers last on the plant for 3 or 4 days before fading. To keep deadheading from becoming overwhelming, take a daily tour of your garden and remove any spent blooms you come across. If you have little time for maintenance, try using`Wave' Petunias, Impatiens, Annual Vinca or Periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus) and Wax Begonias. They are all annuals that don't require any deadheading whatsoever.

June Blooms & Veggies

With all the rain and sun we've had, the balcony is filling out beautifully!



Morning Glory, Beefsteak Tomato, Japanese Eggplant and Cosmos



My San Marzano plum tomatoes - the weirdest-shaped tomatoes I've grown!


Pole beans and black zucchini filling out nicely!



May Queen butterhead-type lettuce - for Salade Nicoise tonight!

The "Two Sisters" of Life: Planting Squash & Beans Together


Since it's too late for me to plant corn this year, I'm planting squash and beans together in one container, in what I like to call the "Two Sisters" method. Next year, I'm going to try all three, Corn, Squash and Beans, which is the traditional "Three Sisters" method.


I planted a Black Zucchini and a Lemon Cucumber in 15x15 in./ 38x38 cm. containers and stuck 5 bamboo poles around the edge of each container. I then placed one pre-soaked bean seed at the base of each pole. I'm using Cherokee Trail of Tears and Hidatsa Shield Figure pole beans (see previous post for more details.)


I fixed the poles together using galvanized wire.


I've since placed these containers in a sunny spot against my balcony railing, since the beans will eventually climb to 10 ft./3 m. or more.

Heirloom Pole Beans

This year I am growing two heirloom, native North American varieties of pole beans, the Cherokee Trail of Tears Bean and the Hidatsa Shield Figure Bean. I purchased my seeds from Sarah Lawrance of Beat Greens here in Ottawa. Sarah grows organic heirloom veggie transplants and sells them at local craft fairs.

How to Grow Pole Beans
Soak bean seeds for 2-4 hours to hasten germination. Do not soak them any longer than this or the seeds may burst and split. Sow directly where you want them to grow once all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds at a rate of about 6-8 seeds per teepee or approximately 6 inches or 15 centimetres apart. Beans prefer a rich, loose moist soil and need a minimum of six hours of sunlight per day. You can start pole beans indoors to get an early start but be very careful when transplanting as they do not like to have their roots disturbed. Use pots that biodegrade to avoid transplant shock. Pole beans can grow up to 10 feet/3 metres high so provide rough bamboo poles, doweling, lumber or even old rebar for them to climb.

In outdoor gardens, you can avoid supports and grow the beans like Native North Americans do, climbing up corn stalks while being shaded by squash. Known as the "Three Sisters" method, all three plants benefit from being planted close together in the garden - the corn and beans are shaded by the squash, to reduce the need for watering, while the beans climb the corn which in turn supports both crops against animal attacks. This system may be a little trickier in a container garden although a friend of mine reports that she has successfully grown corn on her balcony. This year I'm going with just two of the "Sisters", squash and pole beans (on bamboo poles) in the same container -- stay tuned for more details!

Keep in mind that pole beans do not mature all at once so you will need to keep picking them throughout the summer in order to keep them producing new beans. Many heirloom beans can be harvested both young, as fresh green `snap' beans or `haricots verts', and also when fully mature, just leave them to ripen and then dry, right on the plant, for soup or chili beans.

'Cherokee Trail of Tears' Bean - 85 days to maturity

An old native pole bean originally used by the Cherokee in North Carolina and Georgia and taken with them when they were driven out of their homelands by the US government, a forced march known as the 'Trail of Tears'. This bean has been passed on from generation to generation ever since and it's easy to see why the Cherokees valued it so much -- it is very prolific, producing beans over a long season. The plant has tall, purple flowers, and rounded 6 in./15 cm. green to purple bean pods. Tastes great as a snap bean, when harvested young, and rarely has any strings. The small, black, flavourful dried beans have a kidney-bean like texture and make great black bean soup or chili and they're also good with bacon and pork.


Hidatsa Shield Figure Bean - 90 days to maturity

Originally grown by the Hidatsa Indians of the Missouri River Valley of North Dakota, this is supposed to be one of the most flavourful dried beans you can grow. The beans themselves are beautiful, half tan and half white with wonderful orange-red speckles, rather like a pinto horse. They have a firm, dry texture when cooked, and will hold other flavours like onions and herbs well, but they are also very flavourful on their own. Excellent for soup or for baked beans. Very easy to grow and seeds germinate quickly. Very disease resistant and productive variety.

Early Harvest Recipe: Baby Spinach with Baked Goat Cheese

This recipe takes just 10 minutes to make. If you don't have baby spinach on hand, you can use mesclun or any young greens.








Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Wash & drain 3 cups baby spinach (or mesclun) and place in a salad bowl. Make approx 1/4 cup of a simple vinaigrette using 3tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and 1 tbsp. red-wine or balsamic vinegar and set aside.









In a small bowl, stir together 1 cup dry breadcrumbs and 1 teaspoon dried thyme. In another small bowl, pour out 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil. Slice 4 oz. log of goat cheese into 4 half-inch slices. Dip each round of goat cheese in the olive oil...







...and then roll in breadcrumbs, patting firmly.














Place rounds on a greased baking sheet and bake for 6 minutes until golden. Toss baby spinach in vinaigrette and divide among 2 plates.













Top spinach with 2 rounds of goat cheese and serve hot.

Bring Back the Bees!

Although Bee Colony Collapse Disorder remains a 'mystery' in North America, last year France, Germany and Italy all suspended the use of a certain class of pesticides, Systemic Nicotine-based Neonicotinoids, as a precautionary measure. The results - restored bee populations - have prompted these governments to uphold the ban in 2010. In North America, however, for the fourth year in a row more than one third of bee colonies failed to survive the winter. A study recently published in the US scientific journal PLOS (Public Library of Science) found 121 different types of pesticides in 887 wax, pollen, bee and hive samples collected from throughout the United States last year.

Nicotinyl pesticides are systemic pesticides containing clothianidin, thiametoxam and imidacloprid, all neurotoxins that interfere with normal brain function in insects. Crop seed such as corn, soybeans and canola is coated with the pesticide, which is then absorbed by the plant's sap as it grows, so that it becomes a permanent insecticide within the plant. Scientists have observed that directly after sucking dew from corn leaves that had absorbed neonicotinoid pesticides, disoriented bees were unable to find their way back to their hives. Massive numbers of bees are getting lost and dying due to these pesticides! Corn, soybeans and citrus fruits are the main agricultural industries that rely on systemic pesticides, so by purchasing organic fruit and vegetables, you can help reduce the demand.

Systemic pesticides like 'Merit', which contains imidacloprid, are still available to retail consumers to kill White Grubs in lawns, so please encourage your lawn-loving neighbours to use eco-friendly nematodes to combat them instead. Ottawa-area bees are particularly stressed because of the large amount of corn grown here -- most corn is seed-treated with systemic pesticides -- and lots of it winds up in pollen that the bees take home to be stored and to feed the next generation of baby bees. You can create a safe haven for bees on your balcony by growing pesticide-free, nectar-producing plants and by creating an environment bees will feel at home at.

  • Bees prefer to feed in sunny areas that are out of the wind
  • Bees need a source of water -- use a shallow container of water with a few rocks placed in it for drinking platforms, so they don't drown
  • Don't use any chemical pesticides or insecticides on your balcony, and be careful when using organic pesticides such as pyrethrum and rotenone, as bees are sensitive to them
  • Bees feed on a range of plants throughout their life cycle -- have several plant species flowering at once, and aim for a sequence of plants flowering through spring, summer, and fall
  • Flower colors that are particularly attractive to bees are blue, purple, violet, white, and yellow
  • Many garden plants and herbs —particularly older, heirloom varieties—are good sources of nectar or pollen for bees
Annuals & Veggies that attract Bees:
Basil (Ocimum basilicum), Borage (Borago officinalis) Cantaloupe, Cornflowers (Centaurea spp.), Cosmos, Cucumbers, Dahlias, Love-In-A-Mist (Nigella damascena), Melons, Peppers (Caspicum spp.), Poppies (Papaver rhoeas & somniferum), Pot Marigolds (Calendula officinalis), Sunflowers (Helianthus spp), Verbena and Zinnias.

Perennials & Herbs that attract Bees:
Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), Bee Balm (Monarda didyma), Catnip (Nepeta spp.), Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), Coriander/Cilantro, Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum), Lavenders (Lavandula spp.), Mints (Mentha spp.), Nasturtiums, Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Sage (Salvia officinalis), Strawberries, Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) and Thyme (Thymus spp.)

Some Pics from the Balcony


Pansies in bloom


Sweet Peas and Evening-Scented Stocks


James' sculpture

Planning your Balcony Garden

Just as there are many ways to plant up a container, there are many ways to go about designing your balcony or deck garden. The obsessed among us will draw up a scaled plan of the balcony and then plot locations of built-in raised beds, seating areas, etc. Others will simply grow their gardens by acquiring plants and pots one at a time and finding the space to squeeze them in. Whichever way you work it, here are some questions to ask to make sure your garden meets both your needs and those of the plants you choose.

1. How much sun does your balcony get?
If you get more than 6 hours of sun per day, choose plants that like full sun and can tolerate hot, dry conditions. If your balcony is too hot and sunny, consider creating some shade to reduce how often you have to water and increase the range of plants you can grow. Areas that get between 3 and 6 hours of sunlight are considered partial shade situations - annuals such as Lobelia and Nicotiana and perennials like Bellflowers (Campanula spp.) and Columbines (Aquilegia spp.) will all tolerate less than 6 hours of sunlight per day. Under 3 hours of sunlight per day is considered full shade - use shade-tolerant plants, like Hostas, Astilbes, Begonias and Impatiens, that flourish in low light.

2. What direction does your balcony face?
South and west exposures will get more intense light and heat. Choose drought-tolerant plants to reduce watering and hot colours to combat glare. North exposures are much darker and cooler, often in full shade for most of the day. Use white and pale coloured flowers to beat the gloom. Eastern exposures that warm up in the morning sun and are shaded in the afternoon are perfect for pastel tones and plants that like moist soil.

3. When are you out on your balcony?
Most flowers bloom all day long but some, like Morning Glories, California Poppies and many Daylilies, bloom only in the morning, so make sure you'll be around to see them! If you work during the day and really only enjoy your balcony in the evening, white flowered plants and those with silver foliage will really stand out in the dark. There are also many night-blooming flowers available, most of which are very fragrant: Evening-Scented Stock (Matthiola incana), Angel's Trumpet (Datura innoxia), Night Phlox (Phlox 'Midnight Candy'), Flowering Tobacco (Nicoltiana alata), Four O'Clocks (Mirabilis jalapa) and nocturnal varieties of Daylilies (Hemerocallis 'Moon Frolic', 'Punk' and 'Hyperion'). Good edible plants for night-time viewing include White Pumpkins ('Boo'), White Eggplants ('Gretel' and 'Alba'), Silver-leaved Thyme and Variegated Mints.

4. How much time can you devote to your garden?
In a container garden, maintenance and weeding are usually minimal but in hot weather your plants will need daily watering. And remember that the smaller the container, the quicker it will dry out. If you get fed up carrying heavy watering cans out to the balcony, try hooking up a special indoor hose that attaches to your kitchen tap. Self-watering containers will keep plants moist for a couple of days but plan on hiring a plant-sitter to water them if you're away for more than a weekend.

5. Do you need to create shade?
Umbrellas, awnings, sunshades and shade nets can all be used to create shade on your balcony or deck. Make sure umbrellas and shades are secure so the wind doesn't carry them away. Vines on pergolas can also be used to create shade, but make sure they're fast-growing types. Once all danger of frost has passed, taller house plants such as palms and dracaenas can be brought outdoors (gradually, over a period of days, so they don't get sunburned) to provide shade over seating areas. Tree-form potted plants like Hibiscus standards can provide shade to smaller plants and are available at most grocery garden centers throughout the summer.

6. Do you need wind barriers?
The higher you are, the colder and windier it will be. Not only can wind make it uncomfortable to sit out on your balcony, it can also dry out plants, break stems and scatter flowers. Consider closing in open railings with wood, vinyl or clear acrylic paneling, if allowed. Weather resistant fabrics such as canvas work well and old vinyl tarps can be used if you and your landlord are not fussy about colour. Make sure all wind barriers are securely fastened, to prevent wind gusts from tearing them off. Tall, narrow conifers or evergreens in containers are also good at screening out wind but must be treated as annuals in our area unless planted in well-insulated planters and wrapped in burlap for the winter.

7. Do you need to create privacy?
Bamboo panels, old bamboo blinds, cedar lattice or trellises holding fast-growing vines will all screen your balcony and make it seem more private. Tall plants in large containers can also form an effective privacy barrier. A series of hanging baskets can screen out harsh sunlight or upstairs neighbours. Even window boxes provide some privacy that you can peep out over. Recycled items make great trellises - try old security caging, chain-link fence panels, old gates and wrought iron fencing, even discarded clothes racks - don't limit yourself to the garden center or hardware store.

8. Does the public see it?
If you're concerned about the curb appeal of your balcony, try to follow the style and colour of your building as much as possible. Brick structures look best against warm tones like yellow, orange and red while concrete buildings often suit cooler colour combinations. Furniture and structures like trellises should copy or complement existing building materials. Containers in similar styles or colours present a more unified look. Mass plantings of one type of flower in a bold colour can make a simple but elegant statement if your balcony faces streetside. Or mimic the plants already used around your building exterior to create a seamless effect. If you have a container at your entrance that needs to make a statement, use a decorative pot and a mixed planting, perhaps with a showy specimen plant.

9. Do you entertain on your deck or balcony?
Make sure to provide comfortable seating so your balcony can easily become another room when entertaining. Shade is essential if you have guests during the day. Dining areas should be sheltered from the elements and as private as possible. Small BBQs are permissible in many buildings. Consider night lighting, strings of party lights, or small solar lights on sticks. Candles work well if you use lanterns, like these great Moroccan lanterns made out of old sardine cans.

10. Do You Know the Rules?
Be familiar with the rules and regulations in your building - some landlords & condo associations will not let you put up anything on exterior walls, others will limit what can be hung off the balcony. Also be aware of the total weight that your balcony can support. A 36"x36"/90x90cm planter full of wet potting soil can weigh more than 150 pounds/70 kilos. Consult with an architect if you're thinking of building large planter boxes, to make sure your balcony can support the load.

11. Got Art?
Consider adding some art to your balcony garden - metal, ceramic and wooden items will stand up best outdoors. Pieces can be free-standing or affixed to exterior walls or railings. Use artwork as a focal point to attract the eye to the best views of your garden. Consider the size of any sculptures, statues and fountains you may want to use in relation to the size of your space -- don't overwhelm a small balcony with a giant Buddha. Too many smaller pieces can also be distracting - try grouping similar items together in one spot for best effect. Choose pieces that complement your containers and your balcony furniture, whether modern, classical or offbeat. In the Ottawa area, remember to bring all artwork inside for the winter. This includes terracotta pots, which will not withstand frost without cracking.



Hemerocallis 'Punk'

Datura inoxia (Angel's Trumpet)

Mentha piperata variegata (Variegated Peppermint)

Hosta 'Blue Wedgewood'

Solanum melangena 'Gretel' (White eggplant)

Design Tips for Containers

Container plantings can be purely practical or they can become your own personal design statement. The container itself is 50% of the design equation so use your creativity and resourcefulness to search out pots and planters that complement both the plants they will hold and the overall style of your balcony garden. To create a seamless effect from indoors to outdoors, match your containers to your interior decor - super-modern for a hi-tech loft, old-school terracotta if you have lots of antiques, or use recycled and "liberated" containers if your home decor is more like mine. Containers can be made of any non-toxic material but must have drainage holes and drip trays. When grouping containers together in one area on your balcony or deck, don't feel that they all have to match -- they should just have a similar look and feel to avoid distracting the eye. You can plant singly, or fill a container with several plants of the same species, or use graduated plant heights to mix several different types of plants in one pot. As a general guideline, plants should not be more than twice the height of the pot or more than1 ½ times its width.

Planting a Massed Container
For a dramatic effect, mass plants of a single species in one container. You can stick with just one flower colour or mix them up. Stagger the plants in two or more rows for best effect, as in the photo below. I like to mass pansies in spring containers, spaced about 3" apart to get a good quick show, since they tend to fade out once hot weather arrives. Then it's easy to replace them with more heat-tolerant annuals once all danger of frost has passed. Impatiens mass well and can take the shade. If you only have sun, use the New Guinea Impatiens. Mounding or trailing plants look best when massed. Taller, single-stemmed plants such as daisies often look too leggy. If using vertical plants such as Snapdragons, stick to dwarf varieties under 12" in height. Try to avoid planting *anything* in a single row. Garden designers call this the dreaded "tin soldier effect" although it can work well in a very modern garden if you use the right type of plant.


Planting a Mixed Container
When using more than one type of plant, make sure all plants in the container prefer the same amount of sun or shade, and the same type of growing conditions, such as moist or dry soil, rich or lean fertilizer, etc. Avoid using plants of the same height - try to incorporate at least one tall plant, one medium-height plant and one trailing plant in your design. Often a tall vertical plant such as an ornamental grass or a dracaena spike is used in containers as a focal point and is surrounded by successively lower layers of mounding "filler" plants. Trailing plants are then planted at the container edges to soften it. But nothing is written in stone and combining just two plants, for example, a foliage plant and a flowering plant, in one container can be very effective. Use the plant's natural growth habits to guide you in where to place them. Tall leggy plants do best at the center or back of a container so they don't shade out smaller plants. Trailing plants should be planted at least 2" from the edge of the container, to prevent them from drying out too quickly.


Planting Specimen Plants
You can plant showy, large or unusual plants singly in containers, to create a focal point on your balcony or deck. Make sure the container compliments or effectively contrasts with the plant's colours. Plant your specimen directly in the center of the container and stake it if you get high winds. If your specimen is tree-form or single-stemmed, rather than bush-shaped, you can plant a "living mulch" of low growing or trailing plants at its base to help conserve moisture and add visual interest. Place your specimen as far out on your balcony or deck as possible, in order to draw the eye outwards and create the impression of space. If you have a large enough area, you can create both secondary and primary focal points to guide the viewer's eye around the garden at a leisurely pace.

Climbing Vines
Climbing plants are one of the few ways to create space-effective screening on a balcony or deck. Stick with climbing annuals or use fast growing woody vines such as climbing roses, trumpet vine, clematis, etc, in the Ottawa area. Most vines will not survive our winters in containers unless they are heavily insulated and well-protected from temperature changes. Annual vines can be hard to find as garden center transplants so buy seeds and grow your own. Morning glories, climbing nasturtiums and sweet peas are all very easy to grow and will reach 6 feet in height about 8 weeks after germination. Interesting tropical vines can also be started from seed in early spring and will grow fast enough to provide quick screening for summer. Try starting Cobaea scandens, the Cup & Saucer Vine with its beautiful purple flowers, from seed, or the Canary Creeper, Tropaeolum peregrinum, with its bright yellow flowers that resemble birds. Woody climbers should be planted singly in a large deep container at least 24" x 24" x 24" in size. Annual climbers and tropical perennials need containers at least 12" deep and 8" wide and are usually massed for best effect. Thin out seedlings to 4" apart, to avoid overcrowding and fungal diseases. Use gardening twine strung on balcony railings, store-bought bamboo or wooden trellises, or even old wire fencing to support your climbers. Woody climbers such as roses and clematis may need to be tied to the trellis with gardening twine but most climbers will find their way up by themselves.


Sourcing Containers
Searching out interesting pots and planters can be fun. If you're going for a romantic look, second-hand stores, antique & yard sales often yield decorative old terracotta and cast iron pots. Old, cracked terracotta pots can be easily repaired. Ethnic-inspired pots and hand-turned pottery can be found at craft sales and art shows. These pots can be used as cachepots if you are reluctant to drill holes in the bottom. Check IKEA or Urban Pot for planters with a more modern, minimalist look. Or visit Global Home & Giftware in Chinatown for large oriental pots at a reasonable price. If recycled containers and veggies are more your style, use large deep containers to imitate raised garden beds. I like old white plastic Versailles planters for tomatoes, eggplants and peppers and I often find them left out on the curb on garbage day. Old window boxes are great for shallow-rooted veggies like lettuce, spinach and herbs.

Intruder Alert!



I went out back to do some gardening at around 7 pm this evening and found this little guy on the roof of our shed. I suspect he was just about to jump down onto the deck and eat my baby spinach. We have a lot of old garages and sheds in the neighborhood where raccoons have made homes and early in the morning on garbage pickup day we'll often see the big mother raccoon with three or four of her babies in tow, checking out what's available.

Fun Facts about Raccoons

• Raccoons get their English name from the Algonquian Indian word 'Arakun', which means "he scratches with his hand".

• The territory of the average urban raccoon has been documented at less than 0.1 sq. km./0.5 sq. miles.

• Raccoons usually don't build their own dens. They take over a den that was made by a skunk or a fox or find a way to get into your home or shed.

• As omnivores, raccoons feed on grubs, insects, rodents and other small animals, eggs, fruits, nuts and vegetables. They will also eat from garbage and compost containers.

• Male raccoons are polygamous and will mate with several females in succession. Female raccoons are monogamous, will mate with only one male and will not tolerate other males after mating has occurred.

• The life span of urban raccoons is only one to two years; most urban populations are completely replaced over four years.

• Raccoons conserve energy during winter through inactivity, not hibernation.

• Raccoons are one of the few creatures capable of making the adjustment from family pet back to wild animal.

• In Ontario, it is against the law to keep raccoons as pets.

• Raccoons can be kept away from houses by trimming tree branches to 10 feet from roof and by keeping climbing plants trimmed away from roof and eave areas.

• To deter raccoons, sprinkle strong smelling repellents such as oil of mustard, in or around the composter and garbage.

• To help keep them away from compost and garbage storage areas, install motion-sensitive outdoor lights.




Cold-Tolerant Annuals To Plant Now

The early warm weather we've enjoyed for the past few weeks made me forget that our official average last frost day is not until May 24th! And then it snowed on Tuesday - just when the annuals had finally arrived at local garden centers. If you're uncertain about whether to plant, be assured that cold-tolerant annuals can stand up to our changeable weather.
All plants listed below are cold-tolerant to at least 2C/35F and lower, and after a brief hardening-off period, can be planted out in window-boxes and containers this week. To harden off your newly-purchased flowering plants before planting (since they may have just arrived from Southern Ontario or even Florida), put them outside for longer and longer periods over the span of three or four days, bringing them indoors at night.


Calendula (aka Pot Marigold)
Gorgeous sunny daisies available in lemon yelllow, gold and red tones, this compact plant is ideal for containers. Needs full sun and well-drained soil. Flowers are used in hand creams, etc., to soothe dry and irritated skin.


Dianthus (aka Annual Pinks)
Bright cheery fringed flowers in all shades of pink and red were once sacred to Artemis in Ancient Greece but became the poor girl's sachet in Victorian times. Heirloom varieties have a strong clove scent. Full sun and good drainage a must.


Diascia (aka Twinspur)
This frothy delicate South African native is related to the Snapdragon. It comes in pastel shades and jewel tones. Trailing varieties are best for containers. Does best in partial shade in hot weather.


Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria)
One of the few cold-tolerant foliage plants, the silver leaves of this plant come in many forms from fern-like to oakleaf. Needs full sun and well-drained soil. Good accent in mixed containers.


Godetia (aka Farewell to Spring)
Cup-shaped blossoms in white, pink, red, or lilac give a summery effect long before July arrives. This plant is native to British Columbia. Stick with the shorter 25 cm./10 in. varieties in containers. Full sun or partial shade.


Iberis (Annual Candytuft)
A small, compact plant literally covered in white, red, lilac or pink blooms. Full sun. Often found in wildflower mixes, very easy to grow.


Lobelia
No other annual is as brightly blue as lobelia and the trailing forms beautifully soften the edges of any container. Also available in pale blue, lilac and white varieties. Does best in partial shade in hot weather but can take full sun in spring and early summer. Trim back plants by one-half once blooming slows down in midsummer, to encourage a second flush of blooms.


Nasturtiums
With saucy upturned flowers and lily-pad-like leaves, Nasturtiums come in yellow, red, orange and and every hue in between. Available in trailing, vine and bush forms. Tolerates lows of 2C/35F. Seeds need warmth to germinate but hardened-off transplants can be used outdoors in containers at this time of year. If frost threatens, bring them inside. Leaves, flowers & seeds are all edible and brighten up salads with their mild peppery taste.


Nemesia
Another South African native, Nemesia is a small bushy plant with orange, purple, white or red tubular flowers. Prefers cool temperatures and will not thrive once hot and humid weather arrives. Full sun or partial shade and moist, well-drained soil.


Osteospermum (Cape Daisy)
Also from South Africa, these large daisies come in white, cream, yellow, lilac, purple or pink shades and have dark blue eye-like centers. Place in full sun, keep well-watered, does not tolerate hard frosts. Low-growing varieties work best in containers.


Pansies & Violas
One of the best spring annuals, pansies, and their tiny fragrant cousins the violas, even bloom through the snow. For a quick show, plant them 3" apart in containers. The colour selection is almost infinite with bi-colour, ruffled and striated petals. Removing the old flowers and stems keeps them flowering through to July. Pinch back plants once hot weather arrives, continue watering and fertilizing, and they will bloom again in the fall.


Petunias
Once properly hardened off, Petunias can tolerate lows of 2C/35F. They are one of the most reliable annual flowers and come in a range of colours from pink through red, lavender, purple, peach, white, cream, and even yellow. Trailing varieties work especially well in containers. Keep fertilizing to encourage flowering all summer.

Phlox (Annual)
A common wildflower in Texas, phlox drummondii or annual phlox is available in compact forms that work well in containers. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Remove spent blossoms to extend flowering time. Although it prefers cool temperatures, more heat-tolerant varieties are becoming available. Also attracts butterflies.


Primulas (aka Annual Primroses)
A perennial often sold as a spring annual, primulas are frost-hardy shade lovers that will tolerate partial sun in cool weather. The tiny flowers, either white, lavender, pink, red or yellow, nestle in tiny clumps of puckered leaves. Flowers usually fade once the summer heats up but containerized primulas can be planted out in the garden in early fall to bloom again next spring.


Snapdragons
Shorter varieties create great vertical interest in containers. New trailing varieties are worth checking out. Available in a multitude of colours, they prefer a rich, well-drained soil and full sun. Remove dead flowers and continue fertilizing to keep them blooming all summer. They are tolerant of 2C/35F temperatures once hardened off.

Sweet Alyssum
Fragrant delicate white, lavender or pale pink flowers make excellent trailing plants in containers. Plant in full sun or partial shade in well-drained soil. Do not over-fertilize - this plant likes it lean. Make sure to smell these before you buy - the white varieties are often the most fragrant. A member of the mustard family, the edible flowers and leaves taste like a broccoli.


Sweet Peas
The princesses of the spring garden, sweet peas are both fragrant and fussy. They prefer to be directly-seeded into moist, rich, organic soil as early in spring as possible. You will need to provide a trellis, a bamboo teepee or string for these vines to climb. Showy flowers usually appear 6 weeks after germination and on warm days will scent the air with a heady perfume. Constant feeding ensures continuous bloom. There are hundreds of varieties available but heat-tolerant versions are best for Ontario.

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